You can fool the fans - but not the players.... John Cage

Overcoming blogaphobia

Jeez - what happened? I used to be a blogging fool but then, suddenly, everything changed. And I'm not happy about it. Social media is fine, great for quick updates & sharing things on the run, but for the real, gritty stuff? Nothin' like a blog post. So I'm back. And I've probably lost what readership I had so this can return to what it started out as.... an online journal of sorts.

I haven't really changed much since I last blogged - still making jewelry, sewing up Alabama Chanin projects, riding my horses. But yet, things have changed. I started practicing yoga every morning (almost) thanks to MyYogaOnline, the best thing I've found online in a long time. It has been wonderful for my back and every morning I look forward to rolling out the mat. I've come a long way with Rhea and so excited for an upcoming clinic. JC had not one but two knee replacements this winter. We got a puppy. It barely snowed, so we're looking at another challenging water year. I started two new websites, Ride & Shine (for jewelry blogging and eventually selling) and Mountain View (for our new business venture).

Certain things keep me grounded and give me great satisfaction, though, like sewing. Most recently, sewing up a Vogue DKNY pattern using Alabama Chanin hand-sewing techniques AND the organic cotton I bought from AC a year or so ago. (This is all part of the use it up them of this winter, too, where I've concentrated on unfinished projects and my fabric/yarn stash).

The pattern and the fabric:

 

I was a little shocked when I went into JoAnn's to buy the pattern. When did they get so bloody expensive? If I don't use this pattern again, this will be a fairly spendy dress. Hopefully it will fit like a dream and I'll want to make several renditions.

There is a fair amount of messing around with the pattern to make it work with the hand sewing and AC's smaller seam allowances and I have to admit I did some winging of it. I measured myself and chose what I thought was the appropriate size, then figured that I'd cut it out without trimming down the seam allowances just in case. I have nightmares of sewing as a teenager and being so excited about making something, then having it not fit AT ALL and tossing it after all that work.

Another goal was getting as much as I could out of this gorgeous fabric I bought from AC. I ended up with enough for a poncho and a fairly decent sized piece I could make into large napkins or some other smallish project. For the lining I used a cotton knit sheet in a sage green. I've found that buying the jersey knit sheet sets at Target work great for some of these projects, at least the 100% cotton ones. There are some cute stripes and other patterns but they are not all cotton so I haven't gone there. (note: you do have to be careful to find the grain on the sheets - they don't always run straight with the cut of the sheets).

My favorite way to sew these projects is to put on a good chick flick or settle in on a Wednesday night to watch Modern Family and Nashville. I get get quite a ways in just one evening although sometimes my back will bark at me the next morning (that's where the yoga comes in).

I sewed up the front and the back, then pinned the sides to check for size.

And yes, some adjusting was in order. My advice, moving forward? Save yourself some time and re-sewing of seams and trim down the pattern. I'll be doing that before the next one.

I took in the sides quite a bit, and then tried it on again. Then I took in the front side and back side seams (the curvy ones) to make it fit even better. Now I'm in the process of flat felling all the seams and the final thing to do will be to bind off the neckline and the armholes. I think I'm going to love this dress.

Before I make another one, though, I'm going to finish a tunic top I cut out and stenciled oh-so-long-ago, and decide what to do with a funny little scarf/wrap that I did the same... but I still have quite a bit of fabric in my stash so I'm sure I won't have to even buy anything to make the next one of whatever I decide to make.

Hey.... it's GOOD to be back!

Related articles

Handstitched

What is happening to American retailers?

The Sears and Robuck Christmas catalog was the wish book in my family growing up as I did in the 60s and 70s. When that slim, full color catalog came out my sisters and I fell on it like it was candy. Circling, underlining, dog-earing pages - we poured through it rating our finds and hoping against hope that the presents under the tree were items from that catalog. We'd lie on our stomachs resting on our elbows as we read each description and salivated over all the desirable toys. Sears and Robuck was the quintessential American retailer. My dad used and swore by Craftsman tools, made in America and with a lifetime guarantee. My mom did our laundry in Kenmore washing machines and dryers. While I'm certain that some of those items we lusted for in the Sears and Robuck catalog were imported from Japan and China, many many of those things were made right here in the USA.

Fast forward to Sears minus Robuck. And read the story of the Bionic Wrench, an American-made popular wrench sold by Sears for several years and now this year in competition with the VERY SIMILAR made-in-China Craftsman Max Access wrench. Read this story about Dan Brown, the inventor of the Bionic Wrench, and his suit against Sears. The company that makes the Bionic Wrench is based in Pennsylvania and with the loss of the Sears business this holiday season, has had to lay off 31 American workers. Sears is selling the two wrenches (the remaining stock of the Bionic Wrench is still listed in the Sears catalog online) for about the same price. The motivation behind the switch to the China-made tool appears to be about profit. And who knows about the quality of the China-made version.

Shame on Sears.

I've thumbed through many a Restoration Hardware catalog and always had this idea that the company supported independent craftsmen and women. Often there will be a highlight on a craftsperson - from weavers of fine linen to metalsmiths to woodworkers. Walking through a Restoration Hardware display is to be transported to a rich, austere lifestyle with oversized leather chairs and huge lamps repurposed from kleig lights. But, alas, it seems that profit margins have also tempted Restoration Hardware. Take Emeco vs the Navy Chair.

I know this isn't new. I worked at Crate and Barrel for a season and knock-offs were (and are) the name of the game. You see it everywhere - WalMart, Ikea, Target, Anthropologie - everywhere. We love a deal in America. We LOVE cheap. If we can score a knock-off and save some money to go buy some more crappy knock-offs somewhere else, we are all over it.

Lets change the landscape, friends. Next time you catch yourself raving over the deal you got, take a breath and think about the larger picture of that deal. What did your money just go? Who and what just got your support? We are in a world of hurt here in the USA, and it is up to you and me and all our friends and family to start CHANGING things.

30 day reflections - Project 333

I've been dreading sitting down to write this - not because of Project 333, the reduction of my wardrobe to a limit of 33 items for 3 months, but because of the 2nd part of this 3-part challenge of mine. The part that involves buying more that is made in the USA. Why is this not easy? Shouldn't it be easy? Well, it ISN'T! And I don't like not being able to succeed at what I attempt.

First, the failures. Might as well get it right out into the open. By far, the purchases I made in the last 30 days were supporting trade with China. What did I buy?

Handbag - good quality, but disappointingly, made in China.
(Similar to this, but alas, not a Coach bag. Which might have been made in America).

Merino-blend long underwear for both JC and myself - significantly less expensive than the brands I like; SmartWool, Ibex, and IceBreaker. Made in China. Small gifts while on vacation - cute and I could have made them myself but here's the key: I didn't plan ahead. Hiking shoes - inventory liquidation of a shoe store in Sandpoint. Amazing price on Merrills. China.

Boots - I researched boots made in USA since I knew that I wanted a pair for this fall. Frye boots are still made in the USA (mostly) but I was looking at $350 or so for a pair. I'm sure they are worth it. But then, Sierra Trading Post had a cute pair of Teva boots for $60. Budget won. Made in China.

Mountain Hardware skirt - one of the things I've learned about Project 333 is that each item in that wordrobe has to work with just about everything else AND it has to fit and look good. I picked a thrift store Banana Republic skort as one of my items and I found, the first time I wore it, that it did not fit well, did not look good, and was not going to be one of the items that I enjoyed wearing. It went into the thrift store pile immediately and I went searching for a versatile skirt. Mountain Hardware had one. Made in China.

Carhartt vest - again, Sierra Trading Post. Great vest, good for riding, casual wear, just about anything outside 3 seasons out of the year. China.

SmartWool tights - I thought SmartWool was all made in America but I was wrong. China.

One bright star - I found an American made line of women's shirts that really work for me. ModBod. I stumbled on a road show at our local Costco, bought a two-pack of white / black 3/4 sleeve t-shirts and love 'em. Happened to find a small shop in Coupeville, WA that carried ModBod (and a LOT of other clothing made in the USA) and bought a gray one.

Lessons learned:

1. Buying USA-made requires that I think ahead. Yes, there are great companies making jeans, boots, handbags, iPhone covers.... you name it. But are you (or am I) going to be able to walk into a mall, superstore, or local shop and find their products? Not often. And they are expensive. So.

2) Buying American requires planning, investment, AND a divorce from on-a-whim fashion urges. Oh, you mean classics? That I take care of and keep for years? That I rock like I'm a French woman? I think I can do it, really I do. Already I find myself passing up Target and Kohls cause, really, what is the point? Everything in there is made in China. I might as well not walk in the door unless I'm going after cleaning supplies.

3) Buying USA-made products may conflict with shopping local. I think the key here is to communicate to local shop owners that you are (I am) invested in buying American-made. The store I visited in Coupeville even rewarded its customers for buying American-made.

4) This might take some time. I am communicating with companies and letting them know that I am interested in purchasing American-made products over those made elsewhere. I emailed MadeWell after getting promotional correspondence and found that you can search within the MadeWell site for products made in the USA. Yay! I answered a survey by Sierra Trading Post and commented that I'd like to see more USA-made products. If enough us pester these companies maybe things will start to change. Limiting my wardrobe has not been particularly difficult and I think that it is because I really didn't wear much more than 33 items before I started this - I just had a lot more than that hanging in my closet "just in case" or "when I lose that 10 pounds". Now, I have what fits, what goes together, and what I like wearing. And I get to look forward to choosing the next 3 month's wardrobe out of my favorites and the new things I'm making.

Which leads us to part 3 of my personal challenge: the making 25% of my wardrobe. Not there yet. But excited about several projects for the winter -

the reverse appliqued smock,

the Guy LaRoche / Alabama-Chanin-interpretation dress, and additional t-shirts, ponchos, and perhaps even a skirt. Knitting hats and fingerless gloves. Cotton knit scarves. Repurposed cashmere, felted.

Even though I have not been entirely successful this first 30 days I'm not discouraged. My next pair of jeans will be made in the USA - I've already been checking out all the companies that make their jeans here and I'll set aside the money. I have a shirt company I like. I know who makes boots in America. And I'll find companies that still make socks, undies, bras, gloves, etc. here. Then I'll start looking beyond clothing. Next year I want the VVR t-shirts to be made in the USA so I'll be talking to our printer about that. We found china coffee mugs at Blue Star Roasting in Twisp, CA that are Homer Laughlin, an American company. Our mugs will be Homer Laughlin. Stay tuned.

And if you are attempting any or all of these three challenges - please let me know. I could use the support! Project 333 - Choose 33 items to wear for the next 3 months (not counting workout wear, sleepwear, underwear, lounge wear). Made in the USA - Actively work to purchase more made-in-America goods. Communicate your desire to companies and shop owners. Walk your talk or 'fess up. The Selvedge Project - make 25% of your wardrobe.

Geez I'm glad this post is written - and I hope that the next one is full of successes and the boastful beating of my chest.

Craftsmanship: the art of rough milling wood.

Early and late season at the Vermilion Valley Resort is when the projects get done. Fewer guests, a slower pace, and a chance to look around at what needs to be done adds variety to our life here and recently, gave me an opportunity to see a type of craftsmanship not often found, at least not where I've been living.

Last winter was a bad one for trees. Thousands of trees fell in the Sierra, including big, old, healthy trees. We bought two of those trees from the Sierra National Forest, and brought in a crew to mill them into usable lumber for projects around the VVR using a Lucas Mill. I spent some time photographing the process, and since I really don't know much about milling,  will let the photos speak for themselves (mostly).

Check out the size of that blade!

Feather helped in her own special way....

Lots of measuring and adjusting....

Wrestling the log into place...

Chips flying....

 

We'll let this dry over the winter and next summer or fall it'll be remade into picnic tables, fences, benches, and whatever else we need around the resort. So cool to be able to use locally grown, locally milled lumber - who would have thought? I'm so glad there are still people who know how to work with their hands, who like being out in the forest getting covered in sap and sawdust, who can set up a saw mill around a tree and cut straight boards, and who will drive the road up to the VVR and do it all here.

My hat's off to you, the craftsmen.

Day one: Project 333

After about a week of combing through my clothes, discarding the obvious to the thrift pile, packing away the summer stuff, and actually sitting down to make a grid to guide me through the next three months of wardrobe needs, I pulled everything that was left onto the bed to narrow it down to 33 items.

 

It took another round or two of ruthless decision-making before I got it down to the following:

2 turtlenecks

7 t-shirts (5 long-sleeve, 2 short-sleeve)

1 cotton sweater

2 lightweight wool tunics

1 pair of skinny jeans and 1 pair of capri jeans

1 skort

2 dresses

2 camisoles, 1 tank top

1 pair shorts

2 button-front shirts

1 cardigan

1 down vest, 1 puffy jacket

1 jacket

1 coat

1 bathing suit

That's it. That's my wardrobe, along with workout clothes, riding clothes, undies (including tights, socks, and camisoles), pjs, and lounging around the house wear. I have four pairs of shoes to go with all that (which JC does NOT think I will be able to limit myself to, given my love of shoes) and I've decided not to count scarves, which as you'll see from the next photo, I'm going to need to add some color.

 

Got a lot of gray, black, white and just a few pops of magenta.... could get boring fast without some scarves.

And then I tallied where everything was made and here's the lowdown on that:

China - 14

USA - 8

Other - 12 (includes India, Mexico, New Zealand, Guatemala, Vietnam, Italy, and Peru.

Made by me - 4

Obviously USA is well behind and obviously I'm behind in making 25% of my wardrobe. But now I know where I stand and can work from here.

This is the amount of space this wardrobe takes up in the closet:

Amazing, no?

This is it in one drawer:

 

That alone makes me incredibly giddy. Me, who is normally cramming things into drawers, suddenly has empty drawers.

And so I embark on this wonderful clothing adventure...

Boot round-up

I'm in boots almost everyday and over the years I've acquired quite the collection. Luckily, I only have a few of them with me this summer, otherwise I'm not sure this list would turn out so nicely - but here we have it. China-1, Mexico-1, USA-2.

The breakdown:

I bought these from a friend recently, who ordered them and couldn't wear them. I like them for the hike-ability aspect, but they are the only boot in this collection made in China. I haven't had them long enough to judge them on quality but Ariat has a good reputation.

 

Olathe - hands-down my favorite boot in the whole world. Made in America. I'm somewhat protective of these boots and don't like to wear them for mucking out corrals and such since I don't want to ruin them. I tend to only wear them when I know I'm riding and only riding.

 

Another, older, pair of Ariat boots recently resoled by a local shoe repair shop in Fresno. I think these get a few extra points for going around the bend more than once. Broken in, comfortable, and servicable with a low heel and a composite sole that pretty much stands up to mucking.

 

Double H boots are made in Martinsburg, PA and although this is my first pair, and again, purchased secondhand from a friend who bought them and couldn't wear them, they won't be my last. They are well-made, comfortable and there are quite a few styles for women that I really like the looks of.

I can't tell you how happy it made me to discover that my two favorite pairs of boots are made right here in the USA.

It was a very good weekend for China

One quick lesson learned in my year-long experiment in buying more American-made products... spur of the moment shopping probably can't happen very often. Buying American takes time and planning and research, it seems.

My weekend, for example.

I traveled to the east side, Bishop, to do a photo booth for the Bishop High School all-80s reunion. No problem, I had everything I needed for the photo booth (remember the last post when I talked about the printer ink and the paper?) - I thought. Turns out my webcam was wonky and I had to rush out after setting up the booth in search of a new webcam. In Bishop. There's KMart and the local guys, SchatNet. I went to the local guys. There were two webcams available and both made in China. I bought one. I also bought a USB headset and microphone to use for recording my screencasts for class. Made in China.

Then, because it was an all-80s reunion and because I love, love, love to dress up I went looking for an 80s outfit. First I hit the thrift stores and was moderately successful - shorty jean jacket, socks with crocheted tops, a scarf to tie around my hair - but stumped when it came to the leggings, the tulle or lace skirt, the fingerless gloves. KMart. In the girls section. All of it cheap and all of it made in China.

Finally, driving home I wanted to stop at the Banana Republic outlet in Tulare. And they were having a fabulous sale. But guess what? Everything in BR is made in China. Did I buy? Yes, I bought two turtlenecks and two camisoles for a very good price. I think guilt made me stop there... here I am blogging about buying American and everything I bought came from one country. China.

So why did I buy?

1. Immediate need - the webcam. I can almost justify that one. Almost.

2. Because it was there - the headset / microphone. Could have waited and searched to see if I could find something made here. #Fail

3. Limited selection and poor planning - the 80s outfit. I've known about this reunion for months and could have easily found everything either at a thrift store or made what I needed. #Fail

4. Spur-of-the-moment shopping and a sale. Again, did I need anything I bought? Did I go looking for turtlenecks and camisoles? No. #Fail

This isn't going to be easy. And it is going to be uncomfortable at times (like this) when I have to show up here and tell you that all the money I spent over the weekend supported workers in China. Maybe a little bit here if you consider the importers, the cashiers and other workers at the stores I shopped at. But not in terms of real living wages, careers, and satisfying work. Not craftsmen.

And so I move on... I flipped through a Sierra Trading Post catalog when I got home. Favorite outdoor clothing brands. China. China. China.

REALLY?

Made in America - a personal challenge

Frustrated by the crushingly slow economic recovery and repulsed by the destructive nature of American politics, I've been moving towards the certainty that change has to come from the bottom. The consumer. The little guy. In other words, me. This is nothing new, this is nothing earth-shattering, but it is becoming more and more apparent that it is the key. The key to regaining some economic strength and resiliency is going to have to come from us. All those little daily purchases. Where was it made? Is there an American-made alternative? Am I choosing American-made? If not, why?

Where better to start than my blog in terms of accountability? Not THAT many people read it so I might even get away with a slip or two. And who knows? The people who do read it might be tempted to join me. Hey, maybe we'll start an economic revolution!

The groundrules:

1. I look for the country of origin on every item I am considering buying.

2. If it is made outside of the United States, I look for an American-made alternative.

3. If I decide to buy the imported version, I must articulate why I did that.

I'm taking this challenge on for a year. Through August 31, 2013. It's going to be rough. I can see already that I'm not going to be able to easily justify some of my favorite shopping sites. Anthropologie? I think you are out for the most part unless I can get past the made in China stuff. Patagonia? Icebreaker? Sierra Trading Post? Nordstrom? WRANGLER for crying out loud? (made in Mexico). Will I be able to find a good pair of riding jeans made in America?

Cosmetics? Art supplies? Technology? It'll be interesting, at least for me, to really look at where all this is coming from. Not that I haven't before, but I haven't really made such a conscious effort to buy American-made. My friend, Carol, looks at the country of origin for every single thing she buys. Did you realize that OPI nail polish is made in America? Hooray!

I'm going to dive right in today with the last three purchases I made. I'm doing a photo booth this weekend, so I bought ink for the printer, photo paper, and photo booth props. Here's the lowdown:

Canon inkjet printer ink: Made in Japan

American alternative? Remanufactured ink cartridges may be purchased from: http://www.inkpal.com for a comparable cost.

Why didn't I buy it? Didn't know - now I do and I've bookmarked the page.

Kirkland Photo Paper: Made in Mexico

Canon Photo Paper: Made in China

American made alternative? Looks like Epson manufactures photo paper in the U.S.

Why didn't I buy it? Didn't know, but do now. Epson it is.

Photobooth props from etsy.com: I think I'm pretty safe here as etsy is a marketplace for handmade... so I'm willing to be these were made in Billings, Montana. Yay!

There it is.... my first Made in America post and I learned something. I hope you did too, and I hope you'll consider joining me in this journey.